Thursday 16 August 2018

The Hamptons .. getting away from the heat of New York city

There is a lot of history surrounding The Hamptons, too much to go into here but interesting nonetheless.

The original inhabitants were Native American tribes hence some of the unusual village and hamlet names. It's an area for fishing and farming and an art community established over the last century. 

Artist Jackson Pollock moved to East Hampton in 1945 with his wife and converted an old barn into a studio where he developed his famous 'drip' technique. His house and studio is now a museum known as the Pollock-Krasner House. You can visit from May through October and reservations are required.

I have wanted to go to The Hamptons for ages after seeing it featured in many movies and television series. There's something about the light, the New England style houses and obviously the beach which really appeals to me. The furthest east I had been from New York City before was to Fire Island which is about half way along Long Island and accessed by ferry.

Of course it's become a major summer retreat for New Yorkers to get out of the stifling heat of the city. In just a couple of hours you can be at the beach whether you drive, go by train or coach. It's also a haven for the rich and famous, pushing property prices to an all time high.

For the last couple of years I've been invited by my wonderful New York friends to their summer rental in East Hampton and this year I was able to take them up on their offer. I was beyond excited and they picked me up from JFK and we headed east, arriving in the village around 9pm - ready for pizza and a glass of wine at Sam's. There was a full moon that night so after dinner we drove over to Main Beach and watched the moon reflect on the Atlantic Ocean. A beautiful introduction and I hadn't even seen anything yet!

Being there was everything I expected - quaint villages, artisan shops, fab restaurants, boats on the water and in the harbour, great beaches and little farm shops along the roadside.

Day one we took a trip to Sag Harbor (historically a whaling port) and after a browse around the town had lunch at LT Burger. The thing they do well in the US is burgers and they made the most delicious crispy waffle fries topped with melted cheese and shallots. A great dish to share.

It was also good that mutual friends were around and we all met up at the beach on the Friday night for a picnic. There was a slight mist rolling in but it didn't dampen spirits and groups of people lit campfires and enjoyed the fresh evening air. Everyone brings their own chairs etc. There are no loungers and umbrellas for rent on the beaches here.

The next day started the same way - overcast and hot so we spent the first half of the day in the village of East Hampton browsing the local shops. There is a fab ice cream shop called Scoop du Jour with a myriad choice of flavours. It's rare that you can just walk in and get served immediately - it's that popular. The portions were large and a single scoop was more than enough for me. They only take cash.

That afternoon we went home and had a barbeque early evening. When the sun went down little flashing lights started appearing in the garden and I was informed that these were winged beetles, commonly known as fireflies or lightening bugs. It was mesmerising to watch them and try as I might I could not get a decent photo. It was a beautiful, silent light show.

We went out for a late late supper at a fab restaurant called Nick & Toni's. The place was jammed with people and the food is superb but you do have to book if you want to get a decent time slot. The crispy zucchini chips were a hit - it's listed as a starter but big enough to share for 3-4 people. 

The sun came out late morning on the following day and after a dip in the pool at the house, we loaded up the car and made our way back to beach. 
Main Beach, East Hampton

I had to put my toes in the water just so I could say I had. The waves were big enough for body boarding and the water refreshingly cold but it was just a little too rough for me given the number of people jostling for position. There is a life guard on duty until 5pm and swimming was only recommended between the flags so the beach was pretty much empty early evening. Families with children packed up and went home.

Dinner that night was to the north of the island at Moby's, East Hampton Point. It is a most beautiful setting and we arrived just in time to see the sun set over the harbour.

This is definitely the place to eat fresh fish - it's the only way to have it. Never again will I buy fish that has been farmed if I can help it.


View from the base of the lighthouse
The long weekend almost over, my bucket list almost ticked, we drove to the far east of the island to Montauk Lighthouse which is more than 200 years old. I have a fascination for lighthouses - it must be something about the loneliness of the lighthouse keeper, the sometimes savage weather and the light beaming out over the ocean to keep mariners safe from crashing onto the rocks. I climbed to the top to see the view and although the air had become quite misty, it was great to look out over the ocean. You can't actually walk around the light. You can only poke your head out of a small opening but so worth the climb for the amazing view if you have a head for heights.

Lobster Roll and slaw
You must not leave Montauk without visiting Duryea's Lobster Deck. This is the place for fresh lobster, clams, prawns, crab cake and more. They also have an extensive wine list - the rosé is all from Provence, France which pleased me as it's the only rosé I like. The delicious lobster cob salad is big enough to share and the lobster roll more than enough for one person. It's also a beautiful setting overlooking the sea.
Check out the live cam on their website.


My Hamptons visit almost over, we mooched around the town (I just had to buy the t-shirt) and headed back to the house.

We left East Hampton that rainy evening on the Hampton Jitney which is a daily coach service between Long Island's East End and New York City. It's a good and comfortable means of travel, reasonably priced and has various drop offs in the city. Ours was just a few minutes walk from where we were staying.

It was sad to leave but also great to be back in Manhattan, my favourite home from home.


Coming up next .. a week in New York City.





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