Wednesday 17 April 2019

Spring break weekend in Prague


Prague is a city I've wanted to visit for a long time. I finally made it happen this year and have recently returned from my weekend break. It's everything I thought it would be. I've had many friends say that it is their favourite place in the world. I have no idea where my favourite place is anymore as there are so many stunning, diverse locations on this planet and many I have yet to see. I take something special away with me from each visit and I have to agree that Prague is special. It is a beautiful, friendly city with gorgeous gothic architecture, religious iconography, sculpture and art. Known as the city of a hundred spires, you will see them everywhere you look.
The Crucifix and the Calvary

My friend and I stayed at the Four Seasons Hotel, on the banks of the Vltava river in Prague Old Town. It was the perfect location for us as it's within easy walking distance of all the sites and shopping areas. It is also only a few minutes from the famous pedestrianised Charles Bridge, constructed in the 14th century and connects the Old Town with Prague Castle. Here you will find artists, musicians and vendors selling souvenirs and the like.
King Charles IV commissioned the bridge. The foundation stone was laid in 1357. The initial idea was to build a functional construction for knight tournaments, and for many years the only decoration on the bridge was a simple crucifix. Later, the Catholic desire for ornamentation resulted in 30 statues being erected between 1600 and 1800.

Memorial to the start of the
Velvet Revolution
One of my interests is art and sculpture and there is plenty to see in Prague. Apart from the statues on the bridge, there are numerous modern works on view. Look up as you walk so you don't miss the rebel artist David Černý's 'Man Hanging Out' of Sigmund Freud at the corner of Husova Street in the Old Town. Černý's other work can be seen in various parts of the city.

Near the river there is a memorial to university student Jan Palach by John Hejduk. The two spiked installations pay tribute to both Jan and his mother. Palach tragically decided to set himself on fire in 1969 in protest of the invasion.

In front of the Four Seasons Hotel you will see the lifesize "The Secret Bench of Knowledge" by Lea Vivot. It is one of many situated around the world.

The Old Town itself leads to the main square where there is a myriad different building styles. Not to be missed is the world famous 600 year old astronomical clock which naturally attracts large crowds on the hour. We arrived a few minutes too late to see the moving apostles but at least the masses had dispersed!

It is possible to tell from the clock dial what day it is and its position in the week, month and year. The Astronomical Clock also tracks Central European, Babylonian and Sidereal time. You can also see the position of celestial bodies on it. On the calendar you can also see which sign of the zodiac currently reigns.


We walked across the Charles Bridge and all the way up to Prague Castle. Walking through the town we picked up the traditional Chimney cake which of course we had to try - yummy but way too big for me! Right in front of the castle there's an outdoor terrace to sit and drink your Starbucks whilst taking in the panoramic view of the city.

We discovered a much nicer place to rest and relax that was a peaceful and quiet haven away from the crowds. It was a café situated in the National Gallery just a few hundred metres from the castle where you could enjoy a coffee or a glass of wine and something to eat.

It was so pleasant walking around in the spring sunshine, taking in the sites and browsing shops. I'd really love to come back for a different take in the autumn or winter when it snows. Be aware though that this is a city of cobbled streets and pavements so comfortable footwear is advised.

There is obviously so much more to see and do in Prague than we had the time for, particularly if you are interested in history, music and art.

On reflection I can certainly see why people describe this as their favourite place in Europe. I think that maybe this could be one of mine now.


Places we liked for food and drink -

Poached eggs on avocado toast
topped with rocket salad
SmetanaQ café and bistro Smetanovo nábřeží 334/4 Praha 1 - cool hangout for breakfast/brunch. Right on the river and next door to the Deelive design store selling Czech designed jewellery, fashion and accessories.

Pohostinec Monarch Na Perštýně 15, Prague 1 - Very close to David Černý's Man Hanging Out. Fab menu and wine list and great service and atmosphere. My burger was absolutely delicious, and the fresh slaw which had a hint of ginger a perfect accompaniment. The duck leg confit I'm reliably informed was also good as was the locally sourced wine from Slovakia.